9. The Vintage French Beret with a Contemporary Stem

Introduction

The Contemporary Vintage French Beret updates a classic Parisian silhouette. Featuring an expanding plate shape that tapers down to a clean headband and finishes with an iconic central stem (la queue), it provides structured shape and timeless appeal.

What This Idea Means

The charm of the beret lies in its balanced geometry. Centered radial increases flare the body outward into a wide disc before decreasing back inward, creating an elegant drape that can be styled tilted or pushed back.

How to Make It

  • Yarn: 100% Light DK-weight Feltable Wool (approx. 200m / 100g).
  • Needles: US 4 (3.5 mm) and US 6 (4.0 mm) circular needles plus DPNs.
  • Gauge: 22 stitches and 30 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette on larger needles.
  • Construction:
    1. Start at the top stem: Cast on 5 stitches onto DPNs. Knit an I-cord for 1 inch.
    2. Transition to circular increases: Divide 5 stitches, place markers, and Knit front and back (KFB) into every stitch (10 sts).
    3. Expand the disc: Increase 8 stitches evenly every round, then every alternate round until total count reaches 160 stitches (disc diameter approx. 10.5 inches).
    4. Knit 4 rounds plain without increases.
    5. Reduce: Decrease 8 stitches every alternate round until 96 stitches remain.
    6. Switch to US 4 needles. Knit 1 inch of firm stockinette, allowing the bottom edge to roll naturally inward.
    7. Lightly steam or wet-block over a round dinner plate to set the crisp disc shape.

Tips and Variations

  • Need to Make: Use rustic, non-superwash wool and lightly wet-felt the finished piece to unify the surface and hide stitch transitions.
  • Variation: Embroider delicate botanical stars or constellation knots along the outer plate perimeter using fine metallic thread.